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Lushan
Two hundred temples on a single mountain.
UNESCO World Heritage since 1996. Buddhist pilgrims have climbed this mountain for 1,300 years; emperors and poets followed. The mist arrives like clockwork.
Lushan is not a mountain so much as a library. Every peak holds a temple, every temple a manuscript, every manuscript a thousand years of consideration. The Song-dynasty landscape painters lived here. The neo-Confucian school of White Deer Cave Academy was founded here. The first Pure Land Buddhist monastery in China was built here in 386. Even today, the morning chant of Donglin Temple begins at five, and the bell carries down the valley.
Best time
May for tea harvest; September to November for clear mornings and cloud seas
Highlights
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Yunwu poured in a Tang-era hermit's pavilion, at the hour the mist arrives
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Donglin's morning chant — the hall is colder than the night air; sit at the back
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An hour at White Deer Cave Academy, where Zhu Xi taught the neo-Confucian school
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The Three Peaks ridge at last light, when the valley empties of voices
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